Gus's is TOPS

In looking about for bright spots, the pick of the glitter is the neon sign in South Pasadena: It spells out “Gus’s Bar-B-Q” and signals the long-awaited grand reopening.

Darkened since October, the venerable restaurant is now owned by Chris Bicos and his younger brother, John, who own and operate the Original TOPS restaurant in East Pasadena.

Does this mean a new broom sweeps clean? Or does the broom bring a witch with curses from the many tenured barbecue buffs who loved Gus’s the way it was? (In 2007, the restaurant had celebrated its 61st year as Gus’s and 78th as an eating place.)

“Not at all,” said Chris Bicos. “The only things that fly here are the 16 spices for our dry rub that we get from a specialty spice company outside of California, and the corn we get from Pennsylvania for our ‘cast iron’ cornbread. As for changes, we’ve tinkered with the old menu; redoing it in part so we can present it better, increase quality and keep it affordable. Our mission is to pay respect to the people who built Gus’s — the Tripodes family — and the community which supported them."

Bicos added that his family, which opened the original TOPS in the early 1950s, is well acquainted with the Tripodes, and understands the importance of living up to that family’s good name and the restaurant’s reputation.

While the brothers have done much to renovate the interior — a private room replaces the pool table; a removed partition allows the bar scene to flow into the dining room and new fabrics are done in styles and colors that duplicate the old — they’ve retained the feel of the old Gus’s. Large, early 20th century photos of South Pasadena showcase moments that hang back in time like a fedora on a wooden peg.

So now what?

As before — but with new contrasting blends of assertive herbs and spices as dry rubs — barbecue fare is seasoned overnight, then slowly smoked in apple wood and hickory, a mix that embellishes delightfully.

Rib specialties include Memphis-style baby backs for $23.95 for a full rack and St. Louis spare ribs, also $23.95.

An order of Carolina pulled pork — long-cooked pork shoulder cooked tender enough to be pulled to juicy skeins with your fingers — is only $14.95

Chris Bicos declares that his beef brisket ($15.95) is better than any you’ll taste in Texas, where barbecue means beef and beef means brisket. As in Texas, Gus’s "first cut" brisket is carefully trimmed of unnecessary fat, smoked and slow-cooked until it is as succulent as stew.

But while scuffed-booted Texan pit bosses leave the brisket alone for self-basting, Gus’s attentive masters braise the beef in Guinness beer for about eight hours. They’re very careful — California style — not to get any grease on their Eastwood ponchos.

There are two new items of note: One is described as a fin and feather pot pie of grilled jumbo shrimp and smoked chicken,  with pearl onions bobbing in a of light sherry cream sauce; the other, a smoked brick chicken basted in Gus’s original barbecue sauce. (All sauces, rubs and salad dressings made from scratch.)

From Chef Alan Leonard’s exhibition kitchen you can catch free-range chicken done to a golden brown turn on the rotisserie and witness his vim for vinaigrette in the full-meal salads from $8.95 to $13.95. Leonard formerly was a sous-chef at Smitty’s on South Lake Avenue.

Side dishes (around $4) are drawn from barbecue-house staples like cole slaw and baked beans, plus new Southern comforts like sautéed greens and pecan rice. As always: smokehouse soups, chilies and burgers ($4.75 to $12.25).

For modern California tastes, an upgraded wine list presents great options for red wine and barbecue matchmaking. I plan to date “baby backs” with the sweet tart of a bold South Australian Shiraz ($5.75 a glass, $22 a bottle).

Bicos says that there may be a few other upgrades and changes as dictated by customers. I hope one of them is to get a picture on the wall of Dr. Demento, the dizzily spinning deejay who once broadcast from a house behind the restaurant. And about ribs, some back-in-the-day customers have a bone to pick: When are they going to add gargantuan beef ribs for cavemen to rip apart and gnaw at?

In all, I’d say, following the Tripodes’ footsteps won’t be easy, but the Bicos brothers are moving with vigor and confidence. 

Gus’s Barbecue
808 Fair Oaks Ave, South Pasadena
(626) 799-3251
www.gussbbq.com
Full bar