Ring in the old?
Pop Champagne Bar may never cede the title of ‘Best’ in Pasadena, no matter how old it gets
By Erica Wayne 12/31/2009
Well, here we are at the end of a year many of us would be happy to see gone, if only 2010 didn’t promise to be almost as bleak. But, amidst the frustration, angst, fear, desperation and (Dickens’ favorites) want and ignorance, a few bright spots stand out. One of these is the establishment featured in the Pasadena Weekly’s 2009 Best of Pasadena issue as the Best New Restaurant of the year: Pop Champagne & Dessert Bar.
As the old year nears its finale, it seemed only proper to toast it at a restaurant whose main claim to fame is its nearly endless offerings of champagne and other bubblies by the glass and bottle. So my mate and I put away our undone tasks, unpaid bills, unfed cats, etc., etc., and headed over to Union Street last Sunday evening (the night of the week the restaurant has live music) for a festive holiday repast. We parked on Holly Street and strolled around the block, noting how many neighborhood restaurants were nearly empty. We figured a place specializing in vintages topping out at $30 per glass and $500-plus per bottle might be experiencing a lull as well. But the dimly lit, high-ceilinged, crystal chandeliered, brick-sided, wood-floored, burgundy-upholstered dining room was almost at capacity, merry-makers enjoying flutes of fizzies to the sounds of a good jazz quartet.
It’s not just the sparklies attracting the clientele. We’ll vouch for the food! Paraphrasing Gertie Stein, some of us who flunked Champagne 101 think a wine is a wine is a wine. (Hey, a $12 Domaine Ste. Michelle brut recently beat a $150 Dom Perignon in a blind tasting by 500 knowledgeable oenophiles.) We ordered a glass of smooth Umbrian red ($8) and a generously poured flight of Pop’s four draft beers ($12).
Choosing a meal at Pop is as difficult as picking a beverage. Everything looks tempting, from the cheese and/or charcuterie plates ($14-$18) to appetizers like prosciutto with dates, figs and melon ($10), wild mushroom and goat cheese bruschetta ($7) or deviled eggs with truffle, chive bacon, onion and blue cheese ($7).
We focused on the “chef’s specials” section, picking a trio of angus beef sliders ($16) with gorgonzola mayo/ bacon, pasilla chiles/crumbled chorizo, and goat cheese/dates. The entree includes home-made French fries and a soup, fruit or salad. In addition, we ordered truffle mac ’n’ cheese with crispy oyster mushrooms ($14) and the same choice of sides.
Our soup was a butternut squash puree with crème fraîche and a subtle hint of vanilla oil. Superb! So was the white balsamic vinaigrette on the salad of mixed baby greens, advertised as including fresh berries. In fact, these were limited to a single succulent blackberry and a lone fragrant raspberry. Might I, perchance, suggest another two or three?
The sliders arrived with piping hot fries, crying for immediate attention. But the mini-burgers were almost as compelling. The flattened patties were the least of the attraction, too well-done to make an assessment of meat-quality possible. But their toppings were completely satisfying, each with a distinct and winning personality.
Our mac (shells, actually) swam in a white cheddar sauce with a touch of truffle. Mac ’n’ cheese is becoming a staple in fine restaurants adding comfort foods to their fare. My favorite is the iconoclastic prep at redwhite+bluezz; but Pop’s, with its frizzled mushrooms, is a close second, generous enough to make ordering a second glass of wine appealing — until, that is, we checked the dessert list.
Pop’s sweets are even more fascinating than the savories. Soufflés ($12) are a specialty — for the holiday, the week’s special was chocolate/peppermint. Churros ($8) with chocolate, dulce de leche and cinnamon sauces are equally tempting, and so are strawberry, lemon or Nutella crepes ($7). Roasted lavender strawberries with crème fraîche ($6), profiteroles, crème brulée ($9) and seasonal pavlovas ($7) — talk about visions of sugarplums! Decisions, decisions, decisions …
But when we caught sight of the 14 house-made sorbets and ice creams, our problems were over. For $7 apiece, we each got to pick three flavors from the list: fig brandy, white peach mint, pear port, pineapple, caramel green apple, cranberry walnut and chocolate (sorbets) and vanilla, cinnamon, basil, rose petal, strawberry chocolate pearl, POPcorn and pumpkin (ice creams).
We adored them all. But we’ll let you in on a secret: our hands-down favorite was chocolate, a tar-pit-dark, bittersweet sludge of decadence that made us want to hold up the kitchen and demand the entire cache to take home. Imagine TJs Double Rainbow with even less sugar and more cocoa. Even better, just head over to Pop and indulge in a scoop for $3.
Restaurants come and go, of course. Many of our “Best New Restaurants” of the past 25 years are dead as doornails. But, somehow, I don’t think Pop will be among them. And, while I wonder what new eateries 2010 will bring, I have a feeling that Pop won’t be in any danger of losing its “Best” designation no matter how old it gets.
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